Rapha - am i still relevant?

Rapha Turns 20: A Journey Through Cycling Fashion and Innovation

Twenty years. That's a significant milestone for any brand, and this year, cycling apparel icon Rapha celebrates two decades in the saddle. My history with Rapha stretches back to its early days. A friend introduced me to this fledgling startup, and my first purchase was a now-classic Club jersey. I still remember the thoughtful touches – the complimentary arm warmers and the exquisite packaging. Those small black and white booklets, filled with breathtaking photography that ignited a desire for adventure, were more than just marketing; they were an invitation.

Back then, Rapha was a small, expensive boutique brand, a stark contrast to the prevalent fluoro, race-focused, and, frankly, often aesthetically challenged cycling kit of the time. It possessed an air of exclusivity, its branding subtle with a predominance of black and understated logos. It was a brand for those "in the know," and I was immediately drawn in. My riding companions often teased me, labeling me a snob and dismissing fashion's role in cycling. How wrong they were. I often wonder what they choose to wear now. I believe the profound impact that Rapha and its founder, Simon Mottram, have had on cycling as a whole remains largely unrecognized by the mainstream. How many of today's cycling apparel brands owe their existence, in some part, to the trail Rapha blazed?

Over the years, even as the brand experienced significant growth, I maintained a close connection. The Brewer Street Clubhouse served as my de facto office when I launched Kinoko on Golden Square in 2013. Later, during my time with La Fuga Travel, we collaborated on the Rapha Randonnees and Escapes, predating the official Rapha Travel offerings, and eventually leading to ASCND's Karl Kopinski jerseys – a collaboration I remain incredibly proud of. My trip planning was often guided by Graeme Fife and Peter Drinkell's beautifully written "The Great Roads" books, their stunning photography fueling my desire to conquer every climb they featured, a desire I largely fulfilled. Rapha wasn't just aspirational; it was deeply inspirational.

This brings me to a point of personal reflection: am I, as a seasoned cyclist, still relevant in Rapha's evolving landscape? My cycling journey has taken me across the globe, through every imaginable condition. I've spent countless hours, days, weeks, months, and years wearing cycling kit, gaining invaluable insight into what truly performs and how to dress effectively for varying conditions. What works for a local ride around Regents Park or the Surrey Hills is vastly different from what's required in the high mountains or on a demanding bikepacking expedition. I've experienced both exceptional technical gear and witnessed the realities behind the marketing hype. I have no interest in participating in the "carry-shit-olympics" and constantly shedding layers as conditions change. While many brands offer dedicated summer, winter, and rain gear, these often fall short when faced with significant temperature fluctuations or rapidly changing weather. This is where true technical innovation – thermoregulation – becomes paramount. Certain brands prioritize this, and it's precisely what I seek. Cyclists shouldn't have to endure discomfort; effective products exist that significantly enhance the riding experience. Too often, riders accept discomfort as the norm – take it from me, you don't have to.

I've witnessed a dramatic transformation in cycling. It's undeniably fashionable now, and I would argue that for many brands, and perhaps even a significant portion of consumers, appearing cool and fashionable has eclipsed genuine innovation in importance. All brands need to grow to survive, requiring a constant influx of new customers. The recent cycling booms have skewed the balance between fashion and innovation to a potentially irreversible degree. The pursuit of increased sales seems to have come at the expense of producing truly high-performing technical kit. Designing cycling kit might appear straightforward – I even ventured down that path myself and was surprised by its relative ease – but actually making truly functional kit is a different ballgame entirely. It's easy to engage a third-party factory, create compelling social media content and a website, enlist influencers, and cultivate an appealing aesthetic. However, this doesn't automatically translate to a kit that performs flawlessly on the road. Experienced cyclists likely started with budget-friendly gear and gradually upgraded, eventually arriving at what they currently consider the pinnacle of performance. They wouldn't dream of wearing their old, inferior kit again, deeming themselves "too cool" for it. Yet, a closer examination might reveal that their new, premium kit isn't fundamentally different from their old, discarded gear. I could launch into a lengthy rant about my disdain for excessive layering – the sight of riders wearing rain jackets over insulated jackets in winter truly boils my piss – but I'll refrain. This post is, after all, primarily about Rapha and my own relevance to them as a seasoned, middle-aged white male cyclist.

I had resigned myself to the idea that I was no longer a key demographic for Rapha, but recent events have perhaps shifted that perspective. I received an invitation to Rapha's headquarters, the "mothership," to gain insight into their new products, brand vision, and overall strategy. I hoped, perhaps naively, that I would be convinced of my continued relevance and that I hadn't been entirely forgotten. I arrived with a healthy dose of cynicism (hard to believe, I know!), anticipating a focus solely on new colors and product extensions without any genuine innovation – a return to the fashion-first approach where I felt increasingly out of place.

Over two days, I had the opportunity to engage with various departments and staff members across all levels, from production and development to sales, marketing, and even Francois, the CEO. Several key takeaways resonated with me. Firstly, Rapha still genuinely cares about cycling and its products. Secondly, there's a palpable self-awareness within the company, a clear understanding of their desired direction and the strategies to achieve it. They openly acknowledged past missteps and addressed some of my concerns without prompting. Crucially, I witnessed firsthand the dedication of the people involved in product development, their genuine passion for what they create. Furthermore, I observed tangible progress in diversity; a significant number of the presenters were women. While I don't have specific figures on the company's gender balance, the cycling industry as a whole should certainly take note of this positive shift.

Perhaps Rapha needs to refocus on communicating the functionality of their products and reignite their storytelling. Maybe genuine innovation has been challenging in recent years. The pandemic undoubtedly disrupted countless businesses and distorted many realities; no one navigated that period perfectly. However, we are now entering a new era, and brands must adapt. "Survive ‘til 25" seems to be the emerging mantra. At its core, despite sometimes appearing as a faceless fashion behemoth, Rapha is not. It remains driven by individuals who are passionate about riding bikes and creating exceptional products.

I left the "mothership" with a clear understanding of Rapha's plans and a renewed perspective on their endeavors. While there's still work to be done to fully win me back, the customers they may have inadvertently lost due to shifting fashion trends and increasing brand familiarity still represent a valuable part of their audience – they are still riding and still purchasing. Alongside the influx of new customers and a seemingly new brand direction, I still recognize Rapha as a highly desirable brand.

What I witnessed and heard during my visit instilled hope and a genuine sense of excitement about Rapha's future. My specific wants and needs might not be immediate priorities, and the innovations I'm hoping for might take a year or two to materialise, but I departed with the conviction that Rapha is heading in the right direction, and I feel a renewed sense of connection.

I sincerely hope that in another twenty years (when I'll be 70!), I'll still be riding, and that Rapha will still be producing kit that meets my needs.

Congratulations to Simon and the entire Rapha team on reaching this significant milestone and for their enduring contribution to the world of cycling. And a heartfelt thank you to everyone at the "mothership" who took the time to share their insights with me.

Chapeau!